Our route from Jerusalem was the north-south highway near the West Bank. The security fence was intermittently visible. (This is where it might be helpful to say that the West Bank is an area in the eastern part of Israel along the western banks of the Jordan River.) We passed by the caves of Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.
The distinctive silhouette of Masada, situated atop an isolated rock cliff at the western end of the Judean Desert, is identifiable from miles away. The view of the Dead Sea is amazing.
It is a place majestic beauty. It was a big day for the cousins! As it turned out, this would be our only opportunity for the official group picture.
Joan had gotten us “family” t-shirts and we were looking our best! We smiled for many cameras in support of the theory that “more is better”.
Snake Path is the footpath on the eastern face that winds its way from the tourist center to top. The able-bodied were walking and remainder would take the cable car to the summit.
It was a “take-your breath away” hike; but one of my dreams come true. When I came last year, the tour company would not allow us to walk, and my year old disappointment would be resolved today! Mr Bill was along for the hike.
Years ago, the heroic story of Masada and its dramatic end attracted many explorers to the Judean desert in attempts to locate the remains of the fortress. The site was identified in 1842, but intensive excavations did not take place until the early 1960’s. This was with the help of hundreds of enthusiastic volunteers from around the world. To Israelis, Masada symbolizes the determination of the Jewish people to be free in its own land.
Its colorful history is best told by Josephus Flavius, a young Jew who became a Roman citizen and respected historian. (Many who would have been happy to see him killed also considered him a traitor.) During the 30’s BCE, the Roman overlords crowned an Idumean, named Herod, King of Judea. His Jewish subjects apparently hated him. As a master builder, Herod indulged every need and whim in the construction of Masada.
Some 75 years after Herod’s death, (66 CE) the Great Jewish Rebellion was successful in overcoming the Roman garrison of Masada. In turn, the Romans established camps at the base of Masada, laid siege to it and constructed a rampart using thousands of tons of stones and earth against the western approaches of the fortress. By 70 CE, with the fall of Jerusalem, the Zealots joined forces in Masada. For the next two years, they raided and harassed the Romans. In the spring of 74 CE, a battering ramp was able to breach the wall of the fortress.
Rather than be taken alive, Eleazar ben Ya’ir and a group of Zealot defenders, almost one thousand men, women and children, decided to burn the fortress and take their own lives. The Zealots cast lots; ten men were chosen to kill the remainder, and among themselves, chose the last Jew who would kill himself. Because Jewish law strictly forbids suicide, this decision sounds more shocking today than it probably did at the time. This, of course, is an abbreviated version; I trust my editing has not substantially changed the course of events.
Two thousand years have passed since the fall of Masada. The climate of the region and the remote location has helped to preserve its remains to an extraordinary degree. Masada was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
There is an interesting tale that I heard while volunteering on the army base. Years ago, when Moshe Dayan was Chief of Staff of the Israel Defense Forces (IDF), he initiated a custom of holding the swearing-in ceremony of new soldiers on the top of Masada. After the soldiers completed their basic training, they climbed Snake Path at night and were sworn in under the light of torches. The ceremony ends with the declaration: "Masada shall not fall again."
Our next stop was Nachal David, one of two spring fed streams and waterfalls in the National Park. Ein Gedi National Park was founded in 1972 and is one of the most important reserves in Israel. The park is situated on the eastern border of the Judean Desert and covers an area of 6,250 acres. The park is a sanctuary for many types of plant, bird and animal species. As a migratory path, an additional 200 species join the resident birds in the spring and fall. Ibex and hyrax are two mammal species that are often seen.
The combination of an unusually warm day and Shabbat brought out the crowds. It was literally “teaming with humanity”. Many streams fed into the pool under the waterfall and it was amazing that the temperatures varied from warm to “take your breath away” cold. I know that someone has a picture, but unfortunately, it is not on my memory card. It was a quick dip; we still had places to go.
It's called the Dead Sea because nothing lives in it. It is some of the saltiest water anywhere in the world, almost six times as salty as the ocean! There are no fish, moving creatures, no seaweed, or any living plants of any kind in the Dead Sea. Actually, the only thing you'll see on the shores of the Sea is the covering of a hard white crust, which are crystals of salt. The crust covers everything: it has razor sharp edges and easily slice your skin.
Don’t be confused, as this is not ordinary table salt. The salts found in the Dead Sea are mineral salts, just like you find in the oceans of the world, only in extreme concentrations. Because of these concentrations, the body is more buoyant in the Dead Sea; buoyant enough to bob like a cork. It makes swimming difficult, so people tend to float and enjoy the experience! Gail found her zen moment.
The Dead Sea experience is usually followed by the black mud application. It’s dirty and fun and always worth a few laughs. We dragged Lynda into the Hear no evil, See no evil, and Speak no evil threesome!
Needless to say, showers followed and we were heading north again.
We made a pit stop at a junction along the way and decided it was the perfect opportunity to share our feelings about the Cousins’ Tour with Julian. It was a kumbaya moment!
And of course one picture of the sisters in our "team" t-shirts.
As the sun set this day our heroines/heroes were speeding back to Tel Aviv for a bit of R & R at the Hotel Adiv after a fabulous 8-day tour of the motherland.
And the adventure continues…
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