The Hmong and the Zao are the largest groups in SaPa. Each of the groups has its own cultural heritage, lifestyle and language. Having settled in the mountains more than 5,000 years ago, the tribes still hold fast to custom and rituals. Historically, these groups have not been educated. The women, however, have been very industrious with embroidered clothing and handicrafts.
Located near the Chinese border in NW Vietnam. SaPa is often called as "the Tonkinese Alps". It is an incredibly picturesque village, not unlike any of the ski villages in the Alps. The big draw to the area is the trekking expeditions out to local villages and beyond. With the backdrop of the Fanxipan peak at over 10,000 feet, there is spectacular scenery everywhere; that is when the area is not shrouded in a low lying cloud or fog!
I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect as we headed down the paved road; but when we stopped at the top of the dirt turnoff, I should have realized the adventure would begin in earnest. We would leave the road for a steep descent over a dirt road toward the rice terraces. Enroute we pass a few houses, buffaloes, pigs,and of course the H'mong girls trying to sell us their goods.
Women and children selling a variety of souvenirs AND bamboo walking sticks greeted us. We debated amongst ourselves about a purchase, and then with a young boy about the cost of the bamboo pole. In the end, we each spent 5,000 VN dong (roughly 50 cents) for a touch of security and stability. As I write this sounds it sounds absolutely absurd, but in the moment, it was real!
The women and children are persistent in their sales approach. ”Hello, will you buy from me?” “What is your name?” “Where are you from?” “How old are you?” And the questions go on. Having learned the language from other tourists, they have the ability to bond with you on many levels. The chatter continues and at some point I realized that these women would be with us for the day! I did not know at the time how opportune that would be.
Yesterday we saw many of the terraced plantings from afar. They are a magnificent vista. It’s only when I got “up close and personal” that I realized that the terraces were all flooded with water. (Think mud!)
The rice fields are completely under water, which is refreshed continuously by the water flowing from the mountains. The water flows from one rice field to another via small canals until it reaches the river in the valley. The rice is planted three times each year with a 3-month growth cycle. The various shades of green that we have seen are month two in the growth cycle.
I want to give you a clear visual on the non-terra firma! Yes, this meant that at different points I would be trekking across a stonewall that felt like a 4 inch balance beam!
Did I mention that I loved my bamboo walking stick? I was doing pretty well, not feeling confident, but managing and then this very rough hand took mine and kept me on the very narrow edge of the stonewall.
It was Girl Power all the way! So how do you thank these women for their guiding hands? Giving them a tip is not culturally acceptable, so purchasing some of their embroidered handicrafts is the best option. I have a new embroidered cummerbund!
As we continued on the trail, the footing was more secure and we walked through very small villages. More often than not, we were the only trekkers; that allowed us the quietude to really take in the environs.
The terraced landscape was a constant, the homes varied: some were in disrepair and others were well constructed.
Open fires (in the houses) for cooking and drying meat were common.
There were children everywhere, as the morning session of school had dismissed.
We heard music as we passed through a village and stopped in for a closer look. A young man was playing a keyboard, and it was pure gold to our ears.
Caroline took a turn on the “ivories” and this young man was intently watching and listening. We continued to listen, after bidding farewell, as our new friend resumed practicing and it sounded familiar. This young musician had mastered Caroline’s tune melody and replayed it was we left the church.
The river itself was low and we crossed a very rocky beach before coming upon another “toll bridge”.
This one was not as well maintained as the previous one, but nonetheless, there was a fee to cross. Because it felt like a tightrope, my hands were trembling too much for any photos - a "missed" kodak moment!
Back in town, we walked up hundreds of steps to the top of Dragon Jaw Mountain, which has a botanical garden and a small performing center. The fog had settled in and the view was the length of our arms. As the saying goes, “over here you would see….” (Caroline promised to send pictures of previous visits when the sun was shining!)
We saw an ethnic dance performance and I must admit that I had a laughing attack when a young man was “making music”, blowing into a leaf. On the return trip down the hundreds of steps, we stopped for an herbal bath and massage.
This wooden tub was filled with the hottest brown, herb infused water my little tootsies have ever touched. This is a picture of my massage girl, and the older woman who owns the place. The massages are inexpensive by US standards, and the technique differs as well. The first time this young girl hopped up onto the table with me I wasn’t quite sure what to do! (Breathe deeply…in and out…)
We made our way back to the village stopping for a snack at the corner. It is a very common sight for women to set up a small barbeque and cook kebabs of beef, lamb, small “unnamed” birds; roast eggs, chestnuts or sticky rice in bamboo. We pulled up stools and sat for a while.
Later that evening we headed out to sample a Vietnamese specialty, Hot Pot: a simmering metal pot of stock. While the hot pot is kept simmering, ingredients are placed into the pot and are cooked at the table.
Our hot pot included lots of leafy greens, mushrooms, tofu, and ginger. The cooked food is usually eaten with noodles and a dipping sauce. The greens that we had were wonderful!
With our stomachs full and my bed calling to me, the adventure continues….
