We were heading south from Halong Bay to Tam Coc, driving the second leg of a triangle and it would take the same amount of time to reach our destination as our road trip this morning. The roads were bumpier and as the sun set, the drive became more boring than not!
Arriving about 4 hours later under the shroud of darkness, we checked into the hotel. The darkness was stark and we had no idea of our surroundings. The four of us dined in a large almost empty dining room. It was an early night for all of us. Awakening to the sound of roosters crowing, I was pleasantly surprised at the vista outside of my window.
Vendors were setting up stalls in the plaza below and flat rowboats were tied up on the river. Roosters and goats were roaming around unattended. This small village was coming alive. We returned to the very empty dining room; over breakfast we made a plan for the day.
Caroline and I boarded one boat and Penny, Jenny and Phuong a second boat and we headed down the river toward the caves. At one point I turned around and was very surprised to see that our guide was rowing the boat with her feet! The river was still pretty quiet and the scenery was beautiful. The green reeds of rice against the backdrop of the limestone cliffs provided many Kodak moments.
As we continued down the river, boats filled with children were heading up river. There was a virtual parade of these boats, with children laughing, young couples kissing (!) and most of them posing for snapshots. We thought they might be going to school, but later realized that it was a state holiday and there was a festival in the plaza by our hotel.
Tam Coc means Three Caves. The limestone mountains that line the river eventually
become caves – and yes, we would travel through three of them on this journey. The caves were created by wind and water, dating back to a time when the sea had occupied the area. There is a tidemark on the rock a few feet above the water. Higher on the mountainside there is evidence of erosion that created some interesting shapes. Over time these crevices have filled in with green grass, which keep the goats happy as they graze on the cliffs. It is these geological shapes and structures: the limestone cliffs arising from the river that give Tam Coc the name of Halong-Bay-On-Land.
The local people who row the boats speak only a few words of English. They are very friendly, but their role is clearly to row the boat. They are not guides in the true sense of giving an explanation of the sights on the river. Temples and Pagoda are visible on the river edge and high into the hills.
The activity on the river increased and the window of opportunity of feeling that we owned the river was gone. Boats filled with beverages and snacks for sale were now following us; this is a very entrepreneurial country!
When we were back at the plaza, I couldn’t resist a photo op for Mr Bill. He really is an ambassador, in his own right, as most people will gladly pose with him!
We made one last stop at Phat Diem before returning to Hanoi. For unknown reasons, I was quite taken with the church. The topography in the delta is flat and because the Phat Diem Cathedral stands on flat ground it impossible to appreciate the grandeur of the building from afar. It is a magnificent structure.
Built between 1875 and 189 by Father Tran Loc, the Cathedral is about 250 feet long and 70 feet wide. Each of the four roofs rests on six ranks of wood pillars (each rank has 16 pillars that are 36 feet tall and are 7 feet in circumference). The main cathedral was closed, but looking in the windows we were able to see the beautiful lacquered woodwork. The jewel of the complex is the adjacent Stone Chapel that is constructed completely in stone: walls, columns, beams, windows and towers.
The priest wanted the church to be apart of the community and it was constructed in what is referred to as a hybrid Asian architecture. There is a larger than life marble statue of the Sacred Heart overlooking pond; the bell tower has an upturned tile roof and stands significantly taller than the church roof. The columns have been carved to resemble bamboo. The mortal remains of Father Loc are interred at the base of the tower.
The total effect of the sprawling compound creates a serene space. The design of each building has you looking up as you enter. Intricate wall paintings add to the artistic quality. The simplicity of the unadorned wooden pews adds another dimension. As a non-Christian, I was surprised that I was in awe as we roamed through the buildings. For over a hundred years of its existence, Phat Diem Cathedral has welcomed visitors and worshippers from all over the world.
As we board on van for yet another bumpy, somewhat arduous road trip back to Hanoi, the adventure continues…
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