We were heading south from Halong Bay to Tam Coc, driving the second leg of a triangle and it would take the same amount of time to reach our destination as our road trip this morning. The roads were bumpier and as the sun set, the drive became more boring than not!
Arriving about 4 hours later under the shroud of darkness, we checked into the hotel. The darkness was stark and we had no idea of our surroundings. The four of us dined in a large almost empty dining room. It was an early night for all of us. Awakening to the sound of roosters crowing, I was pleasantly surprised at the vista outside of my window.
Vendors were setting up stalls in the plaza below and flat rowboats were tied up on the river. Roosters and goats were roaming around unattended. This small village was coming alive. We returned to the very empty dining room; over breakfast we made a plan for the day.
Caroline and I boarded one boat and Penny, Jenny and Phuong a second boat and we headed down the river toward the caves. At one point I turned around and was very surprised to see that our guide was rowing the boat with her feet! The river was still pretty quiet and the scenery was beautiful. The green reeds of rice against the backdrop of the limestone cliffs provided many Kodak moments.
As we continued down the river, boats filled with children were heading up river. There was a virtual parade of these boats, with children laughing, young couples kissing (!) and most of them posing for snapshots. We thought they might be going to school, but later realized that it was a state holiday and there was a festival in the plaza by our hotel.
Tam Coc means Three Caves. The limestone mountains that line the river eventually
become caves – and yes, we would travel through three of them on this journey. The caves were created by wind and water, dating back to a time when the sea had occupied the area. There is a tidemark on the rock a few feet above the water. Higher on the mountainside there is evidence of erosion that created some interesting shapes. Over time these crevices have filled in with green grass, which keep the goats happy as they graze on the cliffs. It is these geological shapes and structures: the limestone cliffs arising from the river that give Tam Coc the name of Halong-Bay-On-Land.
The local people who row the boats speak only a few words of English. They are very friendly, but their role is clearly to row the boat. They are not guides in the true sense of giving an explanation of the sights on the river. Temples and Pagoda are visible on the river edge and high into the hills.
The activity on the river increased and the window of opportunity of feeling that we owned the river was gone. Boats filled with beverages and snacks for sale were now following us; this is a very entrepreneurial country!
When we were back at the plaza, I couldn’t resist a photo op for Mr Bill. He really is an ambassador, in his own right, as most people will gladly pose with him!
We made one last stop at Phat Diem before returning to Hanoi. For unknown reasons, I was quite taken with the church. The topography in the delta is flat and because the Phat Diem Cathedral stands on flat ground it impossible to appreciate the grandeur of the building from afar. It is a magnificent structure.
Built between 1875 and 189 by Father Tran Loc, the Cathedral is about 250 feet long and 70 feet wide. Each of the four roofs rests on six ranks of wood pillars (each rank has 16 pillars that are 36 feet tall and are 7 feet in circumference). The main cathedral was closed, but looking in the windows we were able to see the beautiful lacquered woodwork. The jewel of the complex is the adjacent Stone Chapel that is constructed completely in stone: walls, columns, beams, windows and towers.
The priest wanted the church to be apart of the community and it was constructed in what is referred to as a hybrid Asian architecture. There is a larger than life marble statue of the Sacred Heart overlooking pond; the bell tower has an upturned tile roof and stands significantly taller than the church roof. The columns have been carved to resemble bamboo. The mortal remains of Father Loc are interred at the base of the tower.
The total effect of the sprawling compound creates a serene space. The design of each building has you looking up as you enter. Intricate wall paintings add to the artistic quality. The simplicity of the unadorned wooden pews adds another dimension. As a non-Christian, I was surprised that I was in awe as we roamed through the buildings. For over a hundred years of its existence, Phat Diem Cathedral has welcomed visitors and worshippers from all over the world.
As we board on van for yet another bumpy, somewhat arduous road trip back to Hanoi, the adventure continues…
Monday, August 24, 2009
Halong Bay – Will it be the Newest Seventh Great Wonder?
We took a break from the hectic pace of city life for a day trip to Halong Bay. It was an adventure! Did I mention that the infrastructure of roadways in Vietnam was lacking? The distance between Hanoi and Halong Bay is about 100 miles. The driving time on some very bumpy roads was 3 ½ hours!
Our boat was awaiting our arrival and the next challenge was walking down a steep 6” plank to board the vessel. Certainly not for the faint of heart, we accomplished the challenge and set off to explore. The marina was full of beautifully lacquered boats with many colorful flags. There are about 1600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin that form a rather spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. Because of their precipitous stature, few are affected by any human presence; most of the islands are uninhabited.
The area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Halong Bay is not only a natural wonder, but also a symbol for Vietnamese. Some of the islands have their own legends. One such legend is how Halong Bay got its name. The name originated after a dragon visited the area to protect Hai Phong from the Chinese invaders. The dragon's mighty tail carved the rocky seabed. Vinh Halong —Halong Bay— means Bay of the Descending Dragon.
As we made our way through the bay each of the karsts, limestone mountains, was more fascinating that the next. We had a very decadent seafood lunch on board. White napkins certainly took it up a notch! It was a leisurely boat ride and the serenity of the bay truly engulfed us. It felt like the other end of the continuum from the hectic pace and noise of Hanoi. It was easy to sit on the deck and totally entertain ourselves naming the limestone formations.
Our destination was one of the grottoes that we would explore. There were stalagmites and stalactites that resemble animals and plants. Yes, we enjoyed the cave as much as the kids who were doing the tourist thing with us. My favorite is the “ET, phone home”! Photo credits go to Jenny who did a fabulous job with this picture.
The locals live mainly from the sea, as the bay is very rich in fish and seafood. Most of the rock islands are too poor to sustain any type of cultivation. The locals, who live in the floating homes, spend their mornings fishing and sell their catch to the larger boats that bring the fish to the continent.
There was so much to see and so many pictures to take. Halong Bay really is a must see – and it gets my vote for one of the Seven Wonders of the World!
Our boat was awaiting our arrival and the next challenge was walking down a steep 6” plank to board the vessel. Certainly not for the faint of heart, we accomplished the challenge and set off to explore. The marina was full of beautifully lacquered boats with many colorful flags. There are about 1600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin that form a rather spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. Because of their precipitous stature, few are affected by any human presence; most of the islands are uninhabited.
The area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Halong Bay is not only a natural wonder, but also a symbol for Vietnamese. Some of the islands have their own legends. One such legend is how Halong Bay got its name. The name originated after a dragon visited the area to protect Hai Phong from the Chinese invaders. The dragon's mighty tail carved the rocky seabed. Vinh Halong —Halong Bay— means Bay of the Descending Dragon.
As we made our way through the bay each of the karsts, limestone mountains, was more fascinating that the next. We had a very decadent seafood lunch on board. White napkins certainly took it up a notch! It was a leisurely boat ride and the serenity of the bay truly engulfed us. It felt like the other end of the continuum from the hectic pace and noise of Hanoi. It was easy to sit on the deck and totally entertain ourselves naming the limestone formations.
Our destination was one of the grottoes that we would explore. There were stalagmites and stalactites that resemble animals and plants. Yes, we enjoyed the cave as much as the kids who were doing the tourist thing with us. My favorite is the “ET, phone home”! Photo credits go to Jenny who did a fabulous job with this picture.
The locals live mainly from the sea, as the bay is very rich in fish and seafood. Most of the rock islands are too poor to sustain any type of cultivation. The locals, who live in the floating homes, spend their mornings fishing and sell their catch to the larger boats that bring the fish to the continent.
There was so much to see and so many pictures to take. Halong Bay really is a must see – and it gets my vote for one of the Seven Wonders of the World!
More Hanoi – The Remnants of a Communist Country
A visit to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum is on the short list of “must see” in Hanoi. We were up and out early to join the very long line of tourists, which may have been longer than usual because it was a Saturday. We left our worldly possessions (including cameras and passports) with our guide, Phuong. It was an eye-opening experience and it was the first time since arriving in Vietnam that I felt as though I was in a (formerly) communist country.
We entered the line to go through the metal scanner and in single file entered the queue that stretched along the long block in front of the mausoleum. The line was under the “direction” of the guards, who repeatedly asked that we remove a hat, take our hands out of our pockets, and at a particular point to form a double line. It was like being in grade school. Penny was assigned a new partner, and became instant best friends with Sue from the Singapore. Did I mention that there was NO talking? At a corner, our line merged with one of many large groups of school children that were on class trips. We walked in silence – almost marching – along the front of the very large boxy building. We were told to wait (in the steamy Hanoi sunshine) as we watched a wreath laying ceremony on the steps. And then we were allowed to proceed up the stairs, in pairs, quietly into a blast of very cold air conditioning.
As we wound our way through the corridors, the guards were very vigilant, maintaining quiet, reminding us to keep our hands at our sides, and making sure we kept a constant pace. The queue moved around the glass enclosed embalmed body of Uncle Ho on three sides. There are motionless soldiers standing at attention. It is surreal. It is rumored that the body is returned to Moscow on a regular basis for maintenance, which may be more fact than fiction. The waxy sheen made it difficult to determine if this is a real body that has been heavily embalmed or a wax replica. I’ll never know…
His diminutive stature is very evident, in death as in life. As the engineer of the country’s independence, he was instrumental in defeating the Americans, French and Japanese. This small country also fought the Chinese and Cambodians. Whether you like Uncle Ho or not, one really has to respect his accomplishments. Ho Chi Minh stood in front of this very building to declare independence in 1945.
Adjacent to the mausoleum is the Presidential Palace (built for the General Governor of Indochina), a beautiful, mustard colored French Colonial building. Ho Chi Minh refused to live in the mansion after the defeat of the French, preferring to live in a small cottage on the property and later the house on stilts. His choice of living and working environment illustrates the importance of simplicity and modesty to this Vietnamese revolutionary. This building is elegantly crafted with lacquered and polished wood, following the model of a traditional communal house on stilts.
It was a very busy day and we joined the masses to see the sights of Hanoi. We pushed on to visit the Temple of Literature. Amidst a lot of tourists, you can still feel the serenity and calm as you walk through the gates of what is the city’s first university. The complex is home to Van Mieu, a temple that was built in 1070 to worship the Chinese philosopher Confucius, and Quoc Tu Giam, an elite institution to teach the doctrines of Confucius and his disciples. This was the center for Confucian learning for more than 700 years to about 938 A.D. It is representative of the strong cultural heritage of the Mandarins.
Within the walls are a series of four courtyards that served as an entrance to the university. In addition there are lotus-filled pools and red-roofed temples. Architecturally, it is an example of classic Chinese with Vietnamese influences. Still present are rows of stone tortoises with stelae: stone diplomas, really -- erected between 1484 and 1780, bearing the names and birthplaces of more than 1300 doctor laureates who managed to pass the university's rigorous examinations. The turtle is a symbol of long-life and wisdom and rubbing the turtle’s heads is thought to bring good luck!
We couldn’t leave Hanoi without seeing the Maison Centrale, better known to Americans as the Hanoi Hilton. The prison was built in 1896 by the French to house up to 450 “opponents” of colonialism. The Hoa Loa Prison, as the Vietnamese knew it, is now a museum. Most of the original building was demolished during construction of an adjacent high-rise building.
The interrogation room where many newly captured Americans were interrogated and tortured, notorious among former prisoners as the "blue room," is now made up to look like a very comfortable, if spartan, barracks-style room. Displays in the room claim that Americans were treated well and not tortured, in stark contradiction to the many claims of former prisoners that the room was the site of numerous acts of torture. The audio-visual presentation is classic propaganda.
The name: Hanoi Hilton is a sarcastic reference to the Hilton hotel chain. Its most famous inmates were John McCain, the US pilot who later became a senator and Douglas Pete Peterson, the first US ambassador to the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.
Yes, the undercurrent of communism is ever present –
And the adventure continues…
We entered the line to go through the metal scanner and in single file entered the queue that stretched along the long block in front of the mausoleum. The line was under the “direction” of the guards, who repeatedly asked that we remove a hat, take our hands out of our pockets, and at a particular point to form a double line. It was like being in grade school. Penny was assigned a new partner, and became instant best friends with Sue from the Singapore. Did I mention that there was NO talking? At a corner, our line merged with one of many large groups of school children that were on class trips. We walked in silence – almost marching – along the front of the very large boxy building. We were told to wait (in the steamy Hanoi sunshine) as we watched a wreath laying ceremony on the steps. And then we were allowed to proceed up the stairs, in pairs, quietly into a blast of very cold air conditioning.
As we wound our way through the corridors, the guards were very vigilant, maintaining quiet, reminding us to keep our hands at our sides, and making sure we kept a constant pace. The queue moved around the glass enclosed embalmed body of Uncle Ho on three sides. There are motionless soldiers standing at attention. It is surreal. It is rumored that the body is returned to Moscow on a regular basis for maintenance, which may be more fact than fiction. The waxy sheen made it difficult to determine if this is a real body that has been heavily embalmed or a wax replica. I’ll never know…
His diminutive stature is very evident, in death as in life. As the engineer of the country’s independence, he was instrumental in defeating the Americans, French and Japanese. This small country also fought the Chinese and Cambodians. Whether you like Uncle Ho or not, one really has to respect his accomplishments. Ho Chi Minh stood in front of this very building to declare independence in 1945.
Adjacent to the mausoleum is the Presidential Palace (built for the General Governor of Indochina), a beautiful, mustard colored French Colonial building. Ho Chi Minh refused to live in the mansion after the defeat of the French, preferring to live in a small cottage on the property and later the house on stilts. His choice of living and working environment illustrates the importance of simplicity and modesty to this Vietnamese revolutionary. This building is elegantly crafted with lacquered and polished wood, following the model of a traditional communal house on stilts.
It was a very busy day and we joined the masses to see the sights of Hanoi. We pushed on to visit the Temple of Literature. Amidst a lot of tourists, you can still feel the serenity and calm as you walk through the gates of what is the city’s first university. The complex is home to Van Mieu, a temple that was built in 1070 to worship the Chinese philosopher Confucius, and Quoc Tu Giam, an elite institution to teach the doctrines of Confucius and his disciples. This was the center for Confucian learning for more than 700 years to about 938 A.D. It is representative of the strong cultural heritage of the Mandarins.
Within the walls are a series of four courtyards that served as an entrance to the university. In addition there are lotus-filled pools and red-roofed temples. Architecturally, it is an example of classic Chinese with Vietnamese influences. Still present are rows of stone tortoises with stelae: stone diplomas, really -- erected between 1484 and 1780, bearing the names and birthplaces of more than 1300 doctor laureates who managed to pass the university's rigorous examinations. The turtle is a symbol of long-life and wisdom and rubbing the turtle’s heads is thought to bring good luck!
We couldn’t leave Hanoi without seeing the Maison Centrale, better known to Americans as the Hanoi Hilton. The prison was built in 1896 by the French to house up to 450 “opponents” of colonialism. The Hoa Loa Prison, as the Vietnamese knew it, is now a museum. Most of the original building was demolished during construction of an adjacent high-rise building.
The interrogation room where many newly captured Americans were interrogated and tortured, notorious among former prisoners as the "blue room," is now made up to look like a very comfortable, if spartan, barracks-style room. Displays in the room claim that Americans were treated well and not tortured, in stark contradiction to the many claims of former prisoners that the room was the site of numerous acts of torture. The audio-visual presentation is classic propaganda.
The name: Hanoi Hilton is a sarcastic reference to the Hilton hotel chain. Its most famous inmates were John McCain, the US pilot who later became a senator and Douglas Pete Peterson, the first US ambassador to the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.
Yes, the undercurrent of communism is ever present –
And the adventure continues…
Heading North – Hanoi
An early morning flight to Hanoi was the only sensible way to travel 300+ miles. The highways in Vietnam are not limited access in any direction and this “lacking” infrastructure would make the trip a very long day’s journey!
The ride from the airport was a snapshot of the crowded and hectic pace of Vietnam’s second largest city. We made a brief stop at our hotel and headed to a very old (in existence for more than 100 years) restaurant for a grilled fish lunch. We walked up a very narrow staircase and sat elbow to elbow with the locals. Little did we know at the time that this lunch would be our most favorite meal. The picture captures the beauty of the meal: boneless white fish cooked at the table in a sauté pan over a small charcoal grill. The greens were abundant and spices wonderfully fragrant: dill, tumeric, cilantro and mint. The meal is served with rice noodles, chili peppers, chopped peanuts and fish sauce. It seemed as though they kept replenishing the bowls as we reached bottom. A (not so) cold Hanoi beer was the beverage of choice!
The Old Quarter in Hanoi is the oldest continuously developed area of Vietnam. Its history spans 2,000 years and represents the heart and soul of the city. Dating back to the 11th century when the Vietnamese attained independence, the Old Quarter acquired its reputation as a crafts area, and it morphed into cooperatives/guilds and villages by the 13th century. Members, working and living together, developed a cooperative system for transporting merchandise to the business district.
The villages became streets in a very homogenous manner. The market stalls evolved into homes and because the storekeepers were taxed according to the width of the storefront, storage and living quarters moved to the rear. Consequently the narrow buildings were called “tube houses”; they typically measured about 9 feet by 200 feet.
The rich religious heritage grew parallel with the development of the guilds. As craftsmen moved into the capital they brought their religious practices and transferred their temples and pagodas.
Although the Old Quarter is often called The 36 Streets, it is misnamed, as there is almost twice that number today. There are many different theories on the origin of the name. One is that the number 36 refers to the number of guild locations in the 15th century. As the streets were later developed, each acquired a guild name. The written history of the country offers a plethora of ideas on the subject.
Some streets have achieved fame by their inclusion in popular guidebooks. Hang Gai Street offers silk clothing ready-made and tailored, embroidery, and silver products. Jenny bought some lovely silk shirts.
A majority of the street names in the Old Quarter start with the word hang, which means merchandise or shop. The guild streets were named for their product, service or location. Hang Bac, one of the oldest streets in Vietnam, dates from at least the 13th century. Bac means silver, and appropriately, this street started as a silver ingot factory under the reign of Le Thanh Tong (1469-1497).
Hang Thiec is the street of tinsmiths. The craftsmen originally produced small tin cone-shaped tips, which were used to preserve the shape of the traditional conical hats. The range of products has increased significantly. The street echoes busily with the clanging of hammers against the sheet metal. Workers spread out on the sidewalk shaping metal storage boxes and other objects to custom order.
In Dana Sach’s memoir, The House on Dream Street, the title refers to the street where she lived which housed motorcycle repair shops. The Honda Dream is the gold standard of motorcycles in Vietnam. It is a common practice for the shopkeepers to extend their shops onto the sidewalk and sometimes, into the street itself. It makes walking hazardous to one’s health, climbing over tools and dodging puddles of soapy water from freshly washed cycles.
An evening performance of the water puppets proved more enjoyable than just being a “tourist trap”! Water puppetry is believed to have originated in the Red River delta in the 11th century. The vignettes are snapshots of the daily activities in the rural areas of Vietnam. Often performed in a lake or pond, there is a permanent theater in Hanoi where the art has developed into an important part of the country’s cultural heritage. A traditional Vietnamese band, composed of two sided drums (trong com), cymbals, flutes, gongs, ancient-style guitars and other traditional percussion instruments, accompanies the performance. The “Phoenix Rising” was one of my favorites and I managed to capture it (in its entirety) as a video!
Tomorrow – another day of seeing the sights in Hanoi…
Of course, the adventure continues!
The ride from the airport was a snapshot of the crowded and hectic pace of Vietnam’s second largest city. We made a brief stop at our hotel and headed to a very old (in existence for more than 100 years) restaurant for a grilled fish lunch. We walked up a very narrow staircase and sat elbow to elbow with the locals. Little did we know at the time that this lunch would be our most favorite meal. The picture captures the beauty of the meal: boneless white fish cooked at the table in a sauté pan over a small charcoal grill. The greens were abundant and spices wonderfully fragrant: dill, tumeric, cilantro and mint. The meal is served with rice noodles, chili peppers, chopped peanuts and fish sauce. It seemed as though they kept replenishing the bowls as we reached bottom. A (not so) cold Hanoi beer was the beverage of choice!
The Old Quarter in Hanoi is the oldest continuously developed area of Vietnam. Its history spans 2,000 years and represents the heart and soul of the city. Dating back to the 11th century when the Vietnamese attained independence, the Old Quarter acquired its reputation as a crafts area, and it morphed into cooperatives/guilds and villages by the 13th century. Members, working and living together, developed a cooperative system for transporting merchandise to the business district.
The villages became streets in a very homogenous manner. The market stalls evolved into homes and because the storekeepers were taxed according to the width of the storefront, storage and living quarters moved to the rear. Consequently the narrow buildings were called “tube houses”; they typically measured about 9 feet by 200 feet.
The rich religious heritage grew parallel with the development of the guilds. As craftsmen moved into the capital they brought their religious practices and transferred their temples and pagodas.
Although the Old Quarter is often called The 36 Streets, it is misnamed, as there is almost twice that number today. There are many different theories on the origin of the name. One is that the number 36 refers to the number of guild locations in the 15th century. As the streets were later developed, each acquired a guild name. The written history of the country offers a plethora of ideas on the subject.
Some streets have achieved fame by their inclusion in popular guidebooks. Hang Gai Street offers silk clothing ready-made and tailored, embroidery, and silver products. Jenny bought some lovely silk shirts.
A majority of the street names in the Old Quarter start with the word hang, which means merchandise or shop. The guild streets were named for their product, service or location. Hang Bac, one of the oldest streets in Vietnam, dates from at least the 13th century. Bac means silver, and appropriately, this street started as a silver ingot factory under the reign of Le Thanh Tong (1469-1497).
Hang Thiec is the street of tinsmiths. The craftsmen originally produced small tin cone-shaped tips, which were used to preserve the shape of the traditional conical hats. The range of products has increased significantly. The street echoes busily with the clanging of hammers against the sheet metal. Workers spread out on the sidewalk shaping metal storage boxes and other objects to custom order.
In Dana Sach’s memoir, The House on Dream Street, the title refers to the street where she lived which housed motorcycle repair shops. The Honda Dream is the gold standard of motorcycles in Vietnam. It is a common practice for the shopkeepers to extend their shops onto the sidewalk and sometimes, into the street itself. It makes walking hazardous to one’s health, climbing over tools and dodging puddles of soapy water from freshly washed cycles.
An evening performance of the water puppets proved more enjoyable than just being a “tourist trap”! Water puppetry is believed to have originated in the Red River delta in the 11th century. The vignettes are snapshots of the daily activities in the rural areas of Vietnam. Often performed in a lake or pond, there is a permanent theater in Hanoi where the art has developed into an important part of the country’s cultural heritage. A traditional Vietnamese band, composed of two sided drums (trong com), cymbals, flutes, gongs, ancient-style guitars and other traditional percussion instruments, accompanies the performance. The “Phoenix Rising” was one of my favorites and I managed to capture it (in its entirety) as a video!
Tomorrow – another day of seeing the sights in Hanoi…
Of course, the adventure continues!
The Perfume River – Not as Fragrant as One Would Expect
The Tombs of the Emperors was the theme of our morning activity. A boat cruise on the Perfume River is the usual mode of transportation; however, we decided to drive to the tombs and get a head start on the usual crowds that flock to these favorite tourist spots. It was a smart decision!
The royal tombs, scattered on both sides of the Perfume River (south east of the Citadel in Hue) are monuments to nine of the thirteen rulers of the Nguyen Dynasty. Most of them were built during the Emperor’s lifetime. Although the buildings reflect the individuality of the Emperor, the structures themselves share certain design conventions. The design and construction follow strict rules; at times, requiring substantial modifications to the existing landscape to ensure that the sight lines and orientation of the elements follow celestial and supernatural forces. The five requirements are (1) a courtyard with stone effigies of elephants, horses and mandarins; (2) a pavilion containing a massive stele with eulogies to the departed incumbent; (3) a temple containing an altar for worshipping the Emperor’s soul; (4) a pleasure pavilion, and (5) the tomb itself.
We would be joining the masses at the three most popular sites. The most majestic is that of Emperor Minh Mang, the second emperor in the Nguyen Dynasty. He was a staunch follower of Confucianism with many wives, concubines and a small army of children. Planned by the Emperor himself, and built shortly after his death, it is opulent and exotic, and laid out in formal Chinese style.
As we walked from the parking lot to the tomb, the surroundings were beautiful and serene. The reflection in the lake literally stopped me in my tracks.
As expected, there were animal effigies on one side of the courtyard, and the mandarins on the other.
As with many of the pavilions, the stairs are a great backdrop for a Kodak moment. The landscaping between the buildings is particularly well maintained.
Between the pavilion and the temple, Minh Mang’s “monogram” was re-created in the formal garden.
With the possible exception of Khai Dinh’s monument, no other tomb approaches the level of unity of the elements of Minh Mang's tomb. Its layout and symmetry draws the eye naturally towards the main features, and the architectural balance blends the elements into a pleasing whole.
On the return trip, the vendors (in this case many very young children) were there to greet us. “ma-dame-would-you-buy-some-ba-nan-as?” was spoken in the sweetest of voices with a staccato rhythm. Caroline couldn’t resist!
The tomb of Tu Duc, the ‘poet Emperor’, is set in an elegant garden with a magnificent lake and pavilion complex. TuDuc was the fourth Emperor and reigned from 1847-1883. The centerpiece of the tomb is simplicity itself, which is in sharp contrast to the lavish opulence of his reign (it’s really just a monument – he was buried elsewhere to thwart grave robbers).
Despite his cultural pursuits and desire to achieve a humble lifestyle, it was under Tu Duc that the Nguyen court reached its zenith of lavish opulence. Tu Duc withdrew into court life, seemingly indifferent to the people he ruled, and the brutal treatment of the three thousand artisans and workers pressed into service to build his tomb.
The entire compound at Tự Đức's tomb complex was carefully laid out according to Chinese Feng Shui principles, with angles set just right an lots of barriers (or screens) included to block and confuse evil spirits.
In complete contrast to Emperor Tu Duc's stylish creation, the tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh is of great interest as an architectural watershed, the cusp between the influences of a Chinese past and a Western oriented future. The lavish embellishments of fragments of ceramics and glass for decoration inside the tomb come as a shock after the grimy and rather somber façade and courtyard. A golden effigy of the Emperor seated on his throne under a magnificent cement canopy extravagantly decorated with ceramic fragments could be regarded as a masterpiece.
We returned to Hue for a boat ride on the Perfume River. By and large, the river did live up to the romantic analogies that I had read in many of the guidebooks. I know that its name: the Perfume River conjures up olfactory pleasantries; unfortunately, this was not the case.
The boats that were tied up on both sides of the river were reminiscent of the overcrowding on the streets in many large cities. The facilities on the boats were spartan at best; the river itself was an integral part the occupants living quarters. There were sections on the river that reminded me of “public housing” in the states.
Water travel is a significant means of transportation in Hue.
Further down the river, there were houses on the riverbanks. They appeared to be well tended.
On our way back to the hotel, we toured a crafts workshop where the women were embroidering a variety of pictures.
It was an early night for us, as we would be catching an early plan for a flight to Hanoi.
And the adventure continues…
The royal tombs, scattered on both sides of the Perfume River (south east of the Citadel in Hue) are monuments to nine of the thirteen rulers of the Nguyen Dynasty. Most of them were built during the Emperor’s lifetime. Although the buildings reflect the individuality of the Emperor, the structures themselves share certain design conventions. The design and construction follow strict rules; at times, requiring substantial modifications to the existing landscape to ensure that the sight lines and orientation of the elements follow celestial and supernatural forces. The five requirements are (1) a courtyard with stone effigies of elephants, horses and mandarins; (2) a pavilion containing a massive stele with eulogies to the departed incumbent; (3) a temple containing an altar for worshipping the Emperor’s soul; (4) a pleasure pavilion, and (5) the tomb itself.
We would be joining the masses at the three most popular sites. The most majestic is that of Emperor Minh Mang, the second emperor in the Nguyen Dynasty. He was a staunch follower of Confucianism with many wives, concubines and a small army of children. Planned by the Emperor himself, and built shortly after his death, it is opulent and exotic, and laid out in formal Chinese style.
As we walked from the parking lot to the tomb, the surroundings were beautiful and serene. The reflection in the lake literally stopped me in my tracks.
As expected, there were animal effigies on one side of the courtyard, and the mandarins on the other.
As with many of the pavilions, the stairs are a great backdrop for a Kodak moment. The landscaping between the buildings is particularly well maintained.
Between the pavilion and the temple, Minh Mang’s “monogram” was re-created in the formal garden.
With the possible exception of Khai Dinh’s monument, no other tomb approaches the level of unity of the elements of Minh Mang's tomb. Its layout and symmetry draws the eye naturally towards the main features, and the architectural balance blends the elements into a pleasing whole.
On the return trip, the vendors (in this case many very young children) were there to greet us. “ma-dame-would-you-buy-some-ba-nan-as?” was spoken in the sweetest of voices with a staccato rhythm. Caroline couldn’t resist!
The tomb of Tu Duc, the ‘poet Emperor’, is set in an elegant garden with a magnificent lake and pavilion complex. TuDuc was the fourth Emperor and reigned from 1847-1883. The centerpiece of the tomb is simplicity itself, which is in sharp contrast to the lavish opulence of his reign (it’s really just a monument – he was buried elsewhere to thwart grave robbers).
Despite his cultural pursuits and desire to achieve a humble lifestyle, it was under Tu Duc that the Nguyen court reached its zenith of lavish opulence. Tu Duc withdrew into court life, seemingly indifferent to the people he ruled, and the brutal treatment of the three thousand artisans and workers pressed into service to build his tomb.
The entire compound at Tự Đức's tomb complex was carefully laid out according to Chinese Feng Shui principles, with angles set just right an lots of barriers (or screens) included to block and confuse evil spirits.
In complete contrast to Emperor Tu Duc's stylish creation, the tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh is of great interest as an architectural watershed, the cusp between the influences of a Chinese past and a Western oriented future. The lavish embellishments of fragments of ceramics and glass for decoration inside the tomb come as a shock after the grimy and rather somber façade and courtyard. A golden effigy of the Emperor seated on his throne under a magnificent cement canopy extravagantly decorated with ceramic fragments could be regarded as a masterpiece.
We returned to Hue for a boat ride on the Perfume River. By and large, the river did live up to the romantic analogies that I had read in many of the guidebooks. I know that its name: the Perfume River conjures up olfactory pleasantries; unfortunately, this was not the case.
The boats that were tied up on both sides of the river were reminiscent of the overcrowding on the streets in many large cities. The facilities on the boats were spartan at best; the river itself was an integral part the occupants living quarters. There were sections on the river that reminded me of “public housing” in the states.
Water travel is a significant means of transportation in Hue.
Further down the river, there were houses on the riverbanks. They appeared to be well tended.
On our way back to the hotel, we toured a crafts workshop where the women were embroidering a variety of pictures.
It was an early night for us, as we would be catching an early plan for a flight to Hanoi.
And the adventure continues…
Friday, June 5, 2009
Hue – It’s Two Syllables and Not a Color
Hue was the destination. Let’s get to the pronunciation. Penny thought it took me a very long time to get it right! It is not like the English word for color. It should have one of those little things over the “e”, but I don’t have that on my computer. The nuances of the pronunciations vary according to the region of the country, but “Who A” will be understood!
Spanning both sides of the Perfume River, the Imperial City of Hue is one of the most popular destinations in Vietnam. It is well known for its numerous 19th century ruins, royal tombs and of course a market. We checked in to our hotel (2-3 stars are more than adequate) and had enough time and energy to wander through the market. After the solitude of My Son, the rush hour traffic of two-wheelers (motorized and not) was at times overwhelming!
Dong Bo Market was busy and it had something for everyone: inside booths and outside stalls had produce, spices and a particularly large selection of seafood. Unfortunately, there were way too many flies for my liking. There were many Kodak moments, nonetheless.
As we headed out to dinner, the heavens opened up: thunder, lightening and a deluge of rain, coinciding with a momentary loss of electricity. Did I mention that Hue has the distinction of being one of the rainiest cities (about 120” each year) in Vietnam? This was our first rain.
By the morning the temperatures were in the 80’s and significantly less humid for the moment. Our first stop was the Imperial Citadel, a 6 square mile walled fort that dominates the city. Construction of the citadel was begun in 1804 and it served as Vietnam's capital until around 1945. This moated area includes the Thai Ho Palace and Forbidden Purple City, the former home of the royal family. The first thing you'll see on approaching it is Cot Co, the big flag tower.
The main entrance, through the Noon Gate, is so named because the sun, representing the emperor, is at its highest at noon. Facing south, the gate is also associated with prosperity. (I need to mention here that I became a millionaire in Vietnam – more about that later.) The Palace is the most important of the structures as this is where the emperor received important Vietnamese dignitaries and foreign diplomats.
The Noon Gate is behind us in this snap. Only the Emperor could use the central doorway, nobles used the side doors and mounted horsemen used arched doorways further to the side. The gate, constructed in 1833, is built in a U-shape to symbolize open arms for guests and incorporates repeated uses of the number 5 and 9 -- the luckiest numbers. 100 columns support the upper portion of the building.
I was fascinated by the decorative use of colored china and porcelain in the construction of all the buildings. The big drum is a magnet for tourist’s fingers!
There were a few busloads of school children visiting today and it appeared that this was the setting for their class picture.
+%40+citadel.JPG)
I had to laugh when I remember my own grade school class pictures being taken on the stage of the auditorium.
The main palace inside, the Thai Hoa Palace, is ornately decorated in red lacquer and gold.
Further in, there are the halls of the mandarins on either end - military mandarins on one side and civil on the other. These halls were where the mandarins dressed in their ceremonial robes for royal functions.
Much of the interior was destroyed during the 1968 Tet offensive when the North Vietnamese held the fort for 26 days before being driven out by American forces. The damage inflicted to the architecture is still being repaired, but the Citadel may never be fully restored.
The moat is well stocked with carp; they are especially large from being fed by many tourists. There is a tale from Vietnamese folklore about a carp that wanted to become a dragon. The carp worked so hard everyday that it eventually became a dragon. Teachers and parents use this story to encourage their children to work hard at school so that they can become whatever they want to be.
The Thai Binh Lau (Royal Library) stands in a garden with a small pond and a large bonsai.
Beyond there were pavilions used by concubines.
Walking to the back of the citadel there was little to see. The theme of the dragon is very visible in the design of this pond as well as on many of the steps. The dragon symbolizes power and has long been associated with the emperors.
On the return, we turned down a side path to The Temple.
Outside, there are nine urns, cast at the request of Emperor Minh Mang in 1836, with nine different names symbolizing the Nguyen dynasty.
On each of the urns is a finely carved collection of the 17 traditional Vietnamese patterns like stars, rivers, mountains, seas an ocean, vehicles, forestry and sea products. The patterns on these urns constitute a real encyclopedia on the country. This precious cultural heritage is incredibly well preserved and reflects the exquisite talent of Hue bronze casting artisans.
The are many exits from the Citadel and some are more decorative than others. This one was one of my favorites.
On the left bank of the Perfume River set high on Ha Khe hill is a Buddhist temple that dates to the turn of the 17th century.
Thien Mu Pagoda, a seven-storey pagoda is one of the oldest and most beautiful of the religious buildings in the country. Located between a river and a pine forest, the pagoda is deeply rooted in local legend. As the story goes, an old woman once appeared on the hill and said that a Lord would come and build a Buddhist pagoda for the country's prosperity. Hearing of this, Lord Nguyen Hoang ordered the construction of the pagoda of the "Heavenly Lady" (Thien Mu).
The pagoda was renovated in 1665. A stele was erected on the back of a marble tortoise in 1715.
There is a special sort of "shrine" here to one of the former monks of the temple. At one end of a carport is an old rusty sky blue Austin on blocks.
It was in this car that the monk, Thich Quang Duc took himself to his self-immolation in a busy Saigon intersection in 1963. He was protesting against the persecution of Buddhists by South Vietnam's administration. Photos of his self-immolation were circulated widely around the world and brought attention to the policies of the Diem regime.
Behind the tower, the main sanctuary is situated at the back of a pleasant courtyard. In addition to the monks’ quarters, there are rooms for the novices, whom were walking about the courtyard when we were there.
Phung found a great lunch spot and it was almost like being in cooking school, only we were not cooking.
I photographed most of the shrines that were omnipresent.
After lunch we bicycled (hold on to the handlebars tightly) through the city to the home of a royal descendant. I thought this little oasis in the city was called the Temple of the Princess, but it might be a figment of my imagination. Within the walls of this estate was a feng shui designed sanctuary.
This delightful man, a bit self-serving, is connected to the royal family by marriage. We had a guided tour of the garden and then the house. His historical artifacts and memorabilia are extensive and he had stories about each piece.
Our brains were overloaded with new knowledge and it was time to tend to our bodies. Penny, Jenny and Caroline had decided early on that a massage in each city was reasonable. We found an establishment that appeared legitimate and we went in.
We started laughing when we were handed the smallest of towels to wrap ourselves in. Communication was a bit problematic, but eventually we were given towels large enough to cover-up.
This was my first experience of having a very petite Asian woman jump up onto the massage table with me. Quite an experience – enough said!
And the adventure continues as we explore the Perfume River…
Spanning both sides of the Perfume River, the Imperial City of Hue is one of the most popular destinations in Vietnam. It is well known for its numerous 19th century ruins, royal tombs and of course a market. We checked in to our hotel (2-3 stars are more than adequate) and had enough time and energy to wander through the market. After the solitude of My Son, the rush hour traffic of two-wheelers (motorized and not) was at times overwhelming!
Dong Bo Market was busy and it had something for everyone: inside booths and outside stalls had produce, spices and a particularly large selection of seafood. Unfortunately, there were way too many flies for my liking. There were many Kodak moments, nonetheless.
As we headed out to dinner, the heavens opened up: thunder, lightening and a deluge of rain, coinciding with a momentary loss of electricity. Did I mention that Hue has the distinction of being one of the rainiest cities (about 120” each year) in Vietnam? This was our first rain.
By the morning the temperatures were in the 80’s and significantly less humid for the moment. Our first stop was the Imperial Citadel, a 6 square mile walled fort that dominates the city. Construction of the citadel was begun in 1804 and it served as Vietnam's capital until around 1945. This moated area includes the Thai Ho Palace and Forbidden Purple City, the former home of the royal family. The first thing you'll see on approaching it is Cot Co, the big flag tower.
The main entrance, through the Noon Gate, is so named because the sun, representing the emperor, is at its highest at noon. Facing south, the gate is also associated with prosperity. (I need to mention here that I became a millionaire in Vietnam – more about that later.) The Palace is the most important of the structures as this is where the emperor received important Vietnamese dignitaries and foreign diplomats.
The Noon Gate is behind us in this snap. Only the Emperor could use the central doorway, nobles used the side doors and mounted horsemen used arched doorways further to the side. The gate, constructed in 1833, is built in a U-shape to symbolize open arms for guests and incorporates repeated uses of the number 5 and 9 -- the luckiest numbers. 100 columns support the upper portion of the building.
I was fascinated by the decorative use of colored china and porcelain in the construction of all the buildings. The big drum is a magnet for tourist’s fingers!
There were a few busloads of school children visiting today and it appeared that this was the setting for their class picture.
+%40+citadel.JPG)
I had to laugh when I remember my own grade school class pictures being taken on the stage of the auditorium.
The main palace inside, the Thai Hoa Palace, is ornately decorated in red lacquer and gold.
Further in, there are the halls of the mandarins on either end - military mandarins on one side and civil on the other. These halls were where the mandarins dressed in their ceremonial robes for royal functions.
Much of the interior was destroyed during the 1968 Tet offensive when the North Vietnamese held the fort for 26 days before being driven out by American forces. The damage inflicted to the architecture is still being repaired, but the Citadel may never be fully restored.
The moat is well stocked with carp; they are especially large from being fed by many tourists. There is a tale from Vietnamese folklore about a carp that wanted to become a dragon. The carp worked so hard everyday that it eventually became a dragon. Teachers and parents use this story to encourage their children to work hard at school so that they can become whatever they want to be.
The Thai Binh Lau (Royal Library) stands in a garden with a small pond and a large bonsai.
Beyond there were pavilions used by concubines.
Walking to the back of the citadel there was little to see. The theme of the dragon is very visible in the design of this pond as well as on many of the steps. The dragon symbolizes power and has long been associated with the emperors.
On the return, we turned down a side path to The Temple.
Outside, there are nine urns, cast at the request of Emperor Minh Mang in 1836, with nine different names symbolizing the Nguyen dynasty.
On each of the urns is a finely carved collection of the 17 traditional Vietnamese patterns like stars, rivers, mountains, seas an ocean, vehicles, forestry and sea products. The patterns on these urns constitute a real encyclopedia on the country. This precious cultural heritage is incredibly well preserved and reflects the exquisite talent of Hue bronze casting artisans.
The are many exits from the Citadel and some are more decorative than others. This one was one of my favorites.
On the left bank of the Perfume River set high on Ha Khe hill is a Buddhist temple that dates to the turn of the 17th century.
Thien Mu Pagoda, a seven-storey pagoda is one of the oldest and most beautiful of the religious buildings in the country. Located between a river and a pine forest, the pagoda is deeply rooted in local legend. As the story goes, an old woman once appeared on the hill and said that a Lord would come and build a Buddhist pagoda for the country's prosperity. Hearing of this, Lord Nguyen Hoang ordered the construction of the pagoda of the "Heavenly Lady" (Thien Mu).
The pagoda was renovated in 1665. A stele was erected on the back of a marble tortoise in 1715.
There is a special sort of "shrine" here to one of the former monks of the temple. At one end of a carport is an old rusty sky blue Austin on blocks.
It was in this car that the monk, Thich Quang Duc took himself to his self-immolation in a busy Saigon intersection in 1963. He was protesting against the persecution of Buddhists by South Vietnam's administration. Photos of his self-immolation were circulated widely around the world and brought attention to the policies of the Diem regime.
Behind the tower, the main sanctuary is situated at the back of a pleasant courtyard. In addition to the monks’ quarters, there are rooms for the novices, whom were walking about the courtyard when we were there.
Phung found a great lunch spot and it was almost like being in cooking school, only we were not cooking.
I photographed most of the shrines that were omnipresent.
After lunch we bicycled (hold on to the handlebars tightly) through the city to the home of a royal descendant. I thought this little oasis in the city was called the Temple of the Princess, but it might be a figment of my imagination. Within the walls of this estate was a feng shui designed sanctuary.
This delightful man, a bit self-serving, is connected to the royal family by marriage. We had a guided tour of the garden and then the house. His historical artifacts and memorabilia are extensive and he had stories about each piece.
Our brains were overloaded with new knowledge and it was time to tend to our bodies. Penny, Jenny and Caroline had decided early on that a massage in each city was reasonable. We found an establishment that appeared legitimate and we went in.
We started laughing when we were handed the smallest of towels to wrap ourselves in. Communication was a bit problematic, but eventually we were given towels large enough to cover-up.
This was my first experience of having a very petite Asian woman jump up onto the massage table with me. Quite an experience – enough said!
And the adventure continues as we explore the Perfume River…
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